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The Process
Creating wheel thrown ceramics involves
more than throwing a lump of clay down on a wheel and hoping the
piece doesn’t go flying off and hit a wall.
My training began in 2001 when
my husband (then boyfriend) gave me two months of pottery
lessons for Christmas. This led to over 2 years of
training with Jonnie Kinney, an accomplished potter in Richmond,
Virginia. As my mentor, she nurtured my interest in the
craft and taught me the techniques required to realize my
artistic visions. Perhaps most importantly, she encouraged
me to create a style that was uniquely my own.
There are many steps to the process
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First, one has to choose the clay or
clays that work best for you. Not all clays are created equal
and one type of clay may be more appropriate to the style of a
specific artist than another.
Clays can be gritty or smooth, and vary in color from white to
reds and browns to black. I primarily use a clay called Virginia
Dogwood. It is a very smooth clay with no grog (grit) and is
very elastic in nature. This elasticity and lack of grog allows
me to create thin walled and lightweight yet strong pieces. When
wet, it is gray in color, but after firing it is a brilliant
white. I also use a black stoneware clay called Black
Walnut to create my black and white swirl pieces.
Each piece starts out as a ball of wet clay. The ball is
placed on the wheel and then it is centered, a process of
pressuring the clay into a radial symmetry, so that it does not
move from side to side as the wheel head rotates.
Next it is manipulated into the size and shape I have envisioned
using my bare hands with some help from wooden and rubber
shaping tools. Once I have created the rough shape, the piece is
allowed to begin air drying. When the piece is leather
hard (not wet, but not completely air dried), I put it back on
the wheel, and create a foot rim and remove any excess clay to
create the finished form. Once the form is complete, I add
any additional pieces- handles, spouts, knobs, etc. I also do
any carving or surface decorating at this point. The piece is
then set aside to completely air dry. At this stage, the piece
is referred to as greenware and is very brittle, but can be
handled with care. Often, the process from
wet ball to greenware will take about one week. |
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Once the piece has air dried, it is put
it into the kiln for its first firing. This low temperature
firing, called bisque, fires to cone 06 (approximately 1,830
degrees Fahrenheit) and takes around 10 hours. When the bisque firing
is complete, the kiln slowly cools for 12 to 16 hours. The
pieces which emerge from the kiln are hard, porous and bright
white in color.
When the bisque pieces are taken from the kiln, I wipe them down
with fresh water in order to remove any dust or dirt and then a
coat of liquid wax is applied to the foot of the piece. This
allows a piece to be dipped into the glazes without the glaze
sticking to the foot. The porous nature of the piece allows the
liquid glazes to soak in and firmly adhere to it. |
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After glazing is complete, I wipe
the foot rim clean of glaze and set the piece aside so that the
glazes can dry completely. The cleaning, glazing and drying of a
bisque piece can take from one to three days depending on the
intricacy of the glaze technique applied. For more
information on the glaze colors and techniques I use, please
visit the My
Glazes page.
After glazing, the pieces are returned to the kiln for the final
(high) firing. I fire to cone 6 (approximately 2,232 degrees
Fahrenheit). It is during this firing that the true colors of
the glazes come out. For example, after dipping a bisque piece
in my blue glaze, the surface of the piece will look to be a
dull brown color. It is only through the second firing that the
piece is revealed to be a glossy bright blue. Also, during this
second firing, the clay is rendered non-porous and will hold
liquid whether glazed or unglazed.
The entire creation of a piece from
start to finish will take between 2 and 4 weeks depending on
complexity of the piece and the amount of work waiting to be
done. |
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